My Honest Take on Korean Beauty

I went to Korea incredibly excited to learn. As a dermatologist, I have long admired Korean beauty culture, its emphasis on prevention, gentle hydration and, of course their amazing sunscreens. Korean sunscreens deserve much of their acclaim: they are elegant, lightweight and so pleasant to wear that people are far more likely to use them consistently. They also don't taste bad, which is a personal prerequisite... sweet! I was lucky enough to travel with my best friend who is a luxury skin care developer and our daughters.

I also hoped to learn more about the treatments that have become famous there. In particular, I wanted an honest, evidence-based discussion about polynucleotide injections, often referred to as “salmon sperm” injections. Do they truly improve the skin in a meaningful way, or is it just hype?

Unfortunately, I came home with more questions than answers.

Before our trip, I personally reached out to 24 cosmetic dermatologists in Korea, hoping to create a meaningful academic and professional exchange. I would bring the perspective shaped by my rigorous medical education at Harvard, MIT and Hopkins, along with years of practicing innovative, exceptionally natural aesthetics in San Francisco. In return, I hoped to learn K-beauty's advanced techniques and technologies, and discover which might truly elevate the care I offer my patients. Only one physician responded.

What I did learn through my research is that Korean beauty is obsessed with two treatments I already believe deeply in—Xeomin and Ultherapy. Xeomin is my favorite neuromodulator, like a cleaner Botox that naturally softens wrinkles without looking frozen or overtreated. Ultherapy uses focused ultrasound energy to stimulate collagen, lifting the brows and tightening the jowls gradually without surgery or downtime. 

Seeing how highly these treatments are valued in one of the world’s most sophisticated beauty cultures felt powerfully validating. Korea may be famous for whatever is newest, but its continued long-term enthusiasm for Xeomin and Ultherapy reinforces something we tell our patients every day: sometimes the best treatment is not the trendiest one. It is the one with a strong track record, reliable results, and stunning outcomes that still look like you.

I also arranged a consultation at a beautifully designed cosmetic clinic in Seoul. The lobby was immaculate, polished and luxurious, exactly what one imagines when picturing Korean beauty, and full of American tourists.

But the consultation itself did not inspire trust.

Patients met only with a non-physician consultant, even though I had requested a physician consultation. Mine took a brief look at my skin before warmly recommending nearly $7,000 worth of treatments. She could not show me before-and-after photographs, and I was told I could not meet the non-English-speaking physician who would perform the procedures until after I had paid. When I asked about the physician’s qualifications, she said she did not know the doctor’s specialty or years of experience.

The proposed treatments did not impress me: mostly low-impact lasers with little downtime and relatively little risk, but also results so subtle that it can be difficult to tell whether anything meaningful was accomplished. That may be a safe business model, but it did not feel like thoughtful, physician-led medical care—or a compelling $7,000 investment.

I was also shocked to discover that the savings were nowhere near as dramatic as the advertised prices suggested. The prominently published Botox price was for “baby Botox”; once the full treatment price was revealed and all the recommended add-ons were included, the total was surprisingly close to what a patient might pay in the US. So much for flying across the world for a bargain!

I cannot judge every Korean clinic from one experience, and I know there are deeply knowledgeable and talented physicians practicing there. But the clinic I visited felt designed primarily for high-volume medical tourism rather than a trusted physician-patient relationship.

My takeaway is mixed. Korean skincare is truly innovative, and I returned with an even greater appreciation for its elegant sunscreens, its culture of prevention, and its love of Xeomin and Ultherapy. Expect to see expanded Korean sunscreen offerings at Zand Derm—and continued reminders to reapply every two hours while you are in the sun. 

But when it comes to medical procedures... this is your one precious face. Be cautious, ask questions, listen to your inner wisdom, and don't let the hype around K-beauty override your better judgment. Gilded lobbies and impossible discounts may catch your eye. Your trust must still be earned.